City Guide: Paris, the City of Light
This is perhaps the most common request that lands in my Inbox. Friends, family, colleagues, strangers alike - all ask me for this one list. It’s nice to be associated as a source for all things Parisian, and every time I get asked I’m basically copying and pasting my answer into each email. So I’m finally writing a formal guide - well, list really - kinda like Oprah’s favourite things except it’s Cindy’s and it’s all things Paris. After literally splitting my time between Paris and Vancouver over the past decade (and intensely over the course of a five year period while Keith was living there) I have developed a robust list to get you started.
I’ve indicated the location of these spots in brackets, denoted by arrondissements, which are the districts in Paris. The little ‘e’ is similar to ‘th’ in English, like 4e is 4th. There are a total of twenty districts that start in the heart of Paris next to the Seine River, and make its way in a circular, snail like shape outward. Each arrondissement has its own character, much like neighbourhoods in any city around the world.
SEE & DO
Eiffel Tower - If you have limited time in Paris, skip the lines going to the top. Honestly, it’s not worth the hours of queuing and fighting the crowds. But if you still want to visit, you can buy tickets ahead of time. Nevertheless, there are way better spots to get cool views of Paris. For an iconic, up close shot of the Eiffel Tower, my favourite spot is at rue de l’Université (and avenue de la Bourdonnais). It’s a dead end street meaning you won’t have cars interrupting your shot. If you don’t want any cars parked there, best to go early in the morning. There are also many other spots to get an iconic shot of the Tower:
Arc de Triomphe - head to the rooftop (terrasse) and look southwest
Rue St. Dominique - where it hits boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg
Trocadero - on Avenue de Camoens, a quiet street. There’s also some other great spots off the Trocadero metro stop that you’ll see as soon as you get off the station.
Bir Hakeim Bridge - great, unobstructed views of the Tower right on the Seine
Pont Alexandre III - my favourite bridge in the city, it boasts the Tower in the background
On the Seine - there’s nothing like gazing at the tower on a boat ride on the Seine, with glass of champagne in hand
Arc de Triomphe - If you’re a dare devil like I am, try driving it. When Keith was still living there, I took his car and drove around the Arc, twice, by myself. It was one of those thrilling bucket list things that I wanted to do. Granted, his car was a Range Rover so I felt fairly safe. Not sure if I would have done the same thing had I been in something smaller! Now photographing the Arc can be trickier but again, go early in the morning to avoid too much traffic in the background. You can buy tickets to enter the Arc and walk up to the terrasse, which features a spectacular view of the city.
An Opera or Ballet Performance at the Palais Garnier - To this day, one of the most romantic nights of my life was Keith and I getting dressed up - read tux and red ball gown (à la Pretty Woman), at the Palais Garnier (9e) watching Rossini’s La Cenerentola and then heading across the street for a post-show cocktail at the stunning Café de la Paix. The Palais Garnier is one of the most beautiful buildings and opera houses in the world and if you have a chance to watch something there, I highly recommend it. I have gone to a number of performances at the Palais Garnier over the years (not dressed to the nines all the time) and have always enjoyed my experiences. You can also catch performances at the Opera Bastille (12e), a more modern opera house but it’s nowhere near the beauty and opulence that is so traditionally French, as with Palais Garnier.
Sacre Coeur and Montmartre - My second favourite church after the Notre Dame, the Sacre Coeur Basilica is beautiful and offers stunning views of the city. Observing the outside of the basilica is sufficient if you’re pressed for time. The interiors aren’t as spectacular as the Notre Dame. Plus, you can head to the surrounding Montmartre neighbourhood that offer meandering streets and cute, little cafés. It has a village vibe and you’ll encounter so many fabric stores, in particular Marche St. Pierre - an interior decorator’s dream store and has several floors and every imaginable fabric, notion, and accessories. Wander over to Place du Tertre, a square where artists of all kinds hang out and sell their art. Grab a quick lunch at one of the many cafés near there and just people watch.
Incredible Art - Art is everywhere in Paris. That said, it really depends on the amount of time you have. While it’s common to visit the Louvre, it might not be the best spot. Unless you have something specific that you must see, it literally will take weeks to see everything in that museum. It’s that big and overwhelming. I prefer the much smaller museums, like the Musée l’Orangerie (1e) to see Monet’s Nymphéas (Waterlilies), plus a decent collection of Cézanne, Renoir, Modigliani, Rousseau, Matisse and Picasso; or Le Centre Pompidou (4e) for some great modern art that’s only rivalled by the MoMA in New York. The Palais de Tokyo (16e) also features great contemporary exhibitions and the café in there is a good spot to work for a few hours too. My favourite spot to hide out in the city is at the Jeu de Paume (1e), Paris’ national centre of photography near the Jardins Tuileries. It’s got a great café and surprisingly not many people know about it. If you want a large selection of art but not the enormous crowds of the Louvre, head to Musée d’Orsay (7e) which can also get busy but is located in a stunning Belle Epoque train station which houses the largest collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art in the world. Grab a café crème at the café behind the giant clock. Lastly, I love wandering the gardens of the Musée National Rodin (7e) and sitting on a bench where you can eat your crepe and see ‘The Thinker’.
Head to a Jazz Club - Believe it or not, there are some great jazz spots in Paris and one of my favourite places to hang out is Caveau des Oubliettes (5e), a former dungeon that is now one of the best places that locals go to listen to jazz underground. Cocktails here are quite inexpensive and there’s no cover, which makes it a great night out. Bonus - wander outside after a fun evening and look up - the Notre Dame is right at its doorstep.
Hang out in the Latin Quarter - Besides great jazz, the Latin Quarter (5e) could be considered the intellectual epicenter of Paris. Head to the Sorbonne, one of Europe’s oldest learning institutions and walk the grounds. You won’t be able to enter the university unless you’re a student but there are great cafés nearby to sit and people watch, or simply read a book. Go grab one from the bookstore Shakespeare and Co. and while you’re there, they also have a café for you to relax and enjoy the joie de vivre too. Tour the neoclassical Pantheon and its famous dome. It houses the remains of great French minds, like Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo and Dumas. Walk the Jardin du Luxembourg (6e), with its formal gardens and elegant fountains that border the arty Saint Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter.
Wander around Saint Germain des Prés - Be like one of the existentialist writers and painters of the 19th and 20th centuries and hang out here in the 6e. Whether it’s at the popular Le Café Deux Magots or Café de Flore, or any of the (preferred) less touristy establishments nearby, you’re bound to find a good spot to spend an afternoon. If you’re staying at an AirBnb with a kitchen, this is a good place to indulge in your inner foodie and stop off at La Grande Epicerie to pick up summer truffles and other French ingredients. Macaron fans can head to Pierre Hermé on rue Bonaparte and sample some of the most unique flavours I’ve ever experienced. My favourite flavour is Ispahan, containing rose, raspberry and lychee. This is my favourite macaron shop in all of Paris and it’s no surprise he’s the only pastry chef to win the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, the highest French honour that can be bestowed. If macarons aren’t your thing, consider doing a chocolate walking tour. There are numerous chocolatiers in the 6e that you’re bound to find one you’ll love. Just leave extra room in your luggage.
Shop for Antiques - When Keith was living in Paris, I spent much of my weekends browsing for antiques so I could bring home loads of goodies to outfit my condo back in Vancouver. It’s such a great way to spend an afternoon and there’s nothing better than the thrill of finding a great bargain - and yes, you need to negotiate prices with the vendors. Most will understand English, mais si vous parlez français, vous obtiendrez peut-être un meilleur prix (if you speak French, you’ll get a better price!). And although there are a few antique markets in Paris, including the enormous Marche aux Puces Saint-Ouen (18e) at Porte de Clignancourt, my favourite is the Marche Porte de Vanves (14e) which is much more manageable and all outdoors.
Take a Cooking Class - It’s not Le Cordon Bleu, nor do you have to be that fancy when you’re on vacation. I’ve taken numerous cooking classes over the years in Paris, from making viennoise pastries (like croissants, pain au chocolat, etc.) and making macarons, to customizing and cooking 5-course meals, including how to make proper sauces (like bearnaise and roux) and deboning a chicken. While I went to a number of different cooking schools, I prefer Cook’n with Class (18e) and La Cuisine Paris (4e). Both schools offer up to 5 and 6-hour English-based classes, with hands-on cooking experiences.
Stroll the Bois de Boulogne - New York has Central Park, Paris has Bois de Boulogne (16e). Grab a bottle of wine, some cheese and a baguette and you’ve got a picnic for two on a grassy knoll anywhere in the Bois. Better yet, rent a canoe and dock somewhere to enjoy the scenery. In the summer, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, an amusement park with lots of rides, is a great place for kids. In fact, one year I brought my boys to Paris for Spring Break and they loved it way more than Euro Disney, which turned out to be such a disappointment. The Louis Vuitton Foundation, also located in the Bois de Boulogne, is an art museum and cultural center with featured exhibits that you can also experience.
Shop till you drop - Paris is arguably the epicenter of style. And while places like Printemps, Le Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette have their place, there are so many more interesting spots to drop big (and small) euros. Take the neighbourhood of Le Marais (2e, 3e, 4e), one of my favourite neighbourhoods to stay while I’m in the city. There are plenty of fantastic indie stores that cater to every taste and budget. There’s a good amount of vintage stores there (FREE’P’STAR (4e) , Vintage Bar (4e) and Tilt Vintage (4e) come to mind) while the concept store Merci (3e) and French labels Zadig et Voltaire (3e), Sandro (3e), and Sézane (2e) call this neighbourhood home. Also, head to Empreintes (3e) for jewellery, and Universelles Buly à Paris (3e) for lotions and potions.
Take a Boat Ride along the Seine - One of the best ways to explore the city is along the Seine River. You can book a Bateaux Mouche (8e) lunch or dinner cruise, or just a guided tour. In the spring and summer, I love grabbing a bottle of champagne (which you can buy at the dock), along with a couple of glasses and toast to the City of Light.
Explore the City by Bike - As pedestrian friendly as Paris is, it’s also popular for both tourists and locals alike to get from one part of the city to the other by bicycle. Check out Vélib bike sharing service, and then follow any one of these city routes. Fat Tire Tours also offer a variety of affordable tours throughout the city, including one that ends with a champagne cruise along the Seine.
Take landscape shots of the city - Paris is so beautiful, you’ll want to capture all of it. Do it from these spots:
Top of Sacre Coeur Basilica - there’s an open space just out front of the Basilica steps that offer an expansive view of the city, especially if it’s a clear day.
Top of Printemps Haussmann - on the roof of the department store, it’s free and totally worth it.
Notre Dame - while currently it is under reconstruction following its devastating fire in 2019, it had a spectacular view of Paris looking west on the panoramic terrace near the belfry. Hopefully it will one day be open again.
Montparnasse Tower - best for sunset shots.
Top of the Eiffel Tower - if you’re willing to invest the time (and aggravation of the crowds), it will offer the best 360 degree view of the city, from two levels. At night, there’s even a champagne bar up top where you can toast to the view.
EAT
Au Pied de Fouet (7e) – Best duck confit I’ve ever had. Hole in the wall but great value, tiny and rustic restaurant run by a lovely family. They have a couple of locations but I always go to this location.
Paperboy (11e) – Really great place for brunch. Nice, light and airy space that’s modern and not too expensive. It’s often packed so make sure you go there early. Besides yummy egg dishes, they also serve freshly pressed veggie and fruit juices that you can have made to order.
Café Le Brebant (9e) – very, very pretty bistro with gorgeous lights, lanterns and lush greenery throughout the space and the bar area is stunning. The food is great and cocktails are fantastic.
Café Kitsune (1e) – in Palais Royal, very hipster café that makes really great chai lattes. Tiny seating area so grab your coffees to go and wander the grounds of Palais Royal. It’s so stunning there.
Daroco (2e) – Used to be John-Paul Gaultier’s flagship store-turned-Italian trattoria, really good antipastis and pizza. It’s weird to rave about an Italian place in Paris but it’s that good. It’s also vibey, so call a week ahead for reservations.
Derrière (3e) – One quirky restaurant. It’s basically a converted house where the tables are all over the house in weird places. And there’s a bit of a Narnia thing happening upstairs where you can open up a wooden armoire, step into it and it can lead you to a smoking lounge that looks like a 1970s frat house. It’s SO weird – and super cool. Oh, and the food is excellent too.
David Toutain (7e) – if you have any opportunity to visit a “nicer” restaurant at all, go here. It’s got a Michelin star, but you can grab a prix fixe lunch menu for 70 euros and that’s an amazing value for the food you’re getting. I had 8 courses. They were tiny but I was so full at the end. Absolutely stunning food.
Racines 2 (1e) – casual restaurant with excellent food that’s not far from the big attractions.
Restaurant aux Prés (6e) - a comfortable, intimate room where the marinated scallops are out of this world.
Grand Boulevards (2e) - bright, light and airy, this French-Italian hot spot serves up a phenomenal roast lamb.
Café de la Paix (9e) - Perhaps the most beautiful restaurant I’ve ever been in, I’ve literally sat there in a ball gown after an evening at the Opera Garnier and going to town on an entire steamed crab. For real.
Fulgurances (11e) - Beautifully prepared middle eastern inspired cuisine in a cozy room.
Alcazar (6e) - Been there for dinner, for a party, and sometimes just for cocktails. Although it’s no longer such a hot spot (it’s Paris after all, so there’s constantly something new), the food is still really decent and it remains fairly vibey.
Holybelly (10e) - The idea of brunch really only started picking up in the last few years and one of the hot spots is Holybelly.
Septime (11e) - This is one of those places you call ‘a complete package’ - where the interiors are Instagrammable and the food is stunning (avec une étoile Michelin, bien sûr). Good luck trying to get a reservation less than a month in advance.
Frenchie (2e) - An oldie but a goodie. Order the Tagliolini with black truffle and parmesan. You can thank me later.
Le Comptoir (6e) - I often prefer to eat at bistros. They’re more casual and you can just pop in and pop out. Le Comptoir is a favourite among locals and I go there every time I’m in the neighbourhood, usually after watching one of the shows near there during Fashion Week. No frills, just good bistro fare.
Au Passage (11e) - An ever rotating menu, I’m never disappointed here. It’s consistently good.
Marcel (7e) - There’s two of them (the other is in the 18e) but I prefer this one in the 7e. I go here when I’m yearning for North American grub, like avocado toast, waffles, and fish and chips.
Hotel Amour (9e) - a not-so-secret spot where locals go to have brunch. The courtyard is where it’s at and brunch here can go for hours. The food comes quick but you’ll just want to linger in this lush outdoor space.
Le Perchoir (11e) - there aren’t that many rooftop bars in Paris but this one serves up inventive food along with delicious cocktails. Serious vibe in there, as it’s a hot spot among models and designers.
STAY
To be honest, after Keith moved from Paris to Vancouver and I no longer had access to his massive apartment (serious first-world problems), I almost always rent an apartment through AirBnb and usually in Le Marais neighbourhood. Part of the reason is because Paris is a second home for me and so staying in hotels would just seem weird. Whenever I’m in Paris I’m almost always buying groceries and cooking for myself - unless I’m out with friends - and basically live like a Parisian. But if I had to stay in a hotel, it would be these ones:
Hotel Panache (9e) - great value, beautiful space and a vibey neighbourhood.
Relais Christine (6e) - in one of my favourite areas, get in on this hotel before it becomes too popular. It’s currently a well-kept secret.
Hotel des Grands Boulevards (2e) - not only do I love the hotel restaurant, the rooms are also beautifully appointed and chic.
La Comtesse (7e) - imagine waking up to the Eiffel Tower right outside your room.
