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Victoria, BC, is a destination in western Canada where anyone who has a chance to visit, should put it on their list. And while there are plenty of places to stay, there is none more grand and more celebrated than the historic Fairmont Empress.

Overlooking Victoria’s Inner Harbour, like a queen holding court, the Fairmont Empress can be considered the grande dame of Canada’s railway hotels. Railway hotels were built by Canadian railway companies like Canadian National Railway and the Canadian Pacific Railway beginning in the late 1800s. They were built to house railway passengers as they travelled from one end of the country to the other. So, as you might have guessed, there are railway hotels in most of the major Canadian cities, with Victoria’s Fairmont Empress being furthest west.

Open in 1908, the hotel is now owned privately but managed by Fairmont Hotels and Resorts, part of the larger AccorHotels hospitality group. The Fairmont Empress underwent a $60 million restoration a few years ago that included redesigns of the guest rooms and suites, spa, dining facilities and reception lobby. The lobby’s jaw-dropping, deconstructed “Twill Flower” custom-designed chandelier consisting of 250,000 crystals modernizes the airy entryway to the hotel while still allowing the structure’s Edwardian bones to shine through.

Keith and I have been dreaming of staying at the Fairmont Empress for as long as we’ve been visiting Victoria together. We’ve been members of the Fairmont loyalty program (now ALL-Accor Live Limitless) for over a decade – staying at many Fairmont properties all over the world, from Shanghai to Maui and across Canada. So, when the Fairmont team invited us for a press trip this past summer to enjoy the amenities at the Empress, we jumped at the opportunity.

Accommodations

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We checked into a Signature Room with a view of the inner harbour. Not only could we see the hustle and bustle of the harbour, but we also got a perfect view of the Parliament Buildings.

While the size of the room was fairly standard, the details of the décor stemming from the restoration project was elegant and understated, but with a cheeky pop of colour (staying true to its British heritage). Fairmont has always done a great job of making their hotels super luxurious without being over the top. It’s what I’d call accessible luxury – you always feel like you belong there. All the materials used in the room, from the linens, the duvet, pillows, robes, the bed, all the furniture, to the bathroom amenities (from Le Labo) are always luxurious – but it’s a comfortable, understated luxury. There is nothing better than a Fairmont bed. Keith and I always get a great night sleep in one. In fact, we love the Fairmont linens so much that we actually purchased the same linens (from the Fairmont online store) for our home for the past several years!

Shortly after checking in, we were treated to my favourite treat – gin and tonic, and popcorn (although this was their special Q Bar popcorn with charcoal seasoning. This popcorn is widely raved about online, just do yourself a favour and Google it.) The gin came in two little bottles of Empress 1908 Gin – that’s right, a gin that’s named after the hotel (and for the record, is created by Victoria Distillers that’s just a 30-minute car ride from the hotel). It’s one of my favourite gins in my home bar – not because it’s affiliated with the Empress (that’s just a bonus) but that it’s ridiculously tasty and beautifully hued. Mostly importantly, I just love that this was the welcome treat that arrived shortly after we got into our room. The service at Fairmont properties is always the best in the business and being both a popcorn lover and huge gin lover – the Fairmont Empress got bonus points from me.

Before we move on, just one note about the bathroom – mine did not come with a bathtub but I didn’t mind at all, since the shower was spacious and water pressure was excellent. If having a tub is important to you, you can certainly request one through their reservations team.

Common Areas

The Fairmont Empress is grand and impressive. Grand, as in really big. Not only are there 464 guest rooms but plenty of places to sit and sip and people watch. Their Lobby Lounge is probably my favourite common area – as it reminds me of a Bahamian resort, with its whitewashed walls, coffered ceilings and palm trees. Its where Empress afternoon tea is served, but there’s also a pretty swanky bar plus a piano that gets plenty of regular action by featured performers almost daily. While we didn’t partake in afternoon tea this visit, we’ll for sure add it to our itinerary on our next one.

Just outside of the Lobby Lounge is the Veranda. This is arguably the best patio in town to enjoy a cocktail while overlooking the spectacular Inner Harbour. Keith and I had Lunch on the Veranda (which is actually a ‘thing’) and on a warm, sunny day, nothing beats noshing on their Chilled Seafood Plateau, a seafood tower comprising of scallop ceviche, poached prawns, smoked albacore, potted salmon tartare, tuna and oysters – it was bliss. And here’s my PSA for today: the Veranda is very popular, so make reservations ahead of time. Don’t say I didn’t warn you. And even in the Fall, they have outdoor heaters, so you’ll stay plenty warm.

To the right of the Veranda, is Q Bar and the Empress’ signature restaurant, Q. And while the space is the complete opposite of the bright and airy Lobby Lounge, my eyes wander everywhere. They really don’t know where to look first. It’s modern and Edwardian at the same time – and reminds me of many cool lounges in London. Massive, stylized portraits of Queen Victoria frame the walls and keep watch over patrons. Look up, and you’ll see the masculine, dark faux (!) mahogany ceiling beams that are actually made of plaster and painted to resemble wood. And yet the massive white quartzite bar is where I want to be, sipping on an Empress Sour. Music is also played here, well into the evening. This is where you grab a nightcap before skipping happily back upstairs.

Now before you head back upstairs, you gotta eat. So, eat we did, as we sampled most of Q’s menu. Make sure you order the Crispy Chicken Sliders (with cucumber kimchi, spicy gochujang aioli, and iceberg lettuce on a toasted bun) or the 8 oz Angus Cheeseburger (with roasted onion mayo, tomato, lettuce and aged white cheddar on a brioche bun). Both were perfectly executed and delicious. Check out the entire menu at Q.

Wellness

As someone who’s been so focused on the restoration of the common areas of the property and the guest rooms and suites, I had no idea that there was an indoor pool at the Empress. Not only is there a pool, but it’s actually a beautiful space. The pool was included as part of the restoration and it is definitely worth a visit should you have the opportunity to stay at the hotel. Aside from the pool, there’s a whirlpool plus children’s wading pool and two saunas. Note that capacity restrictions are currently in place for the pool, hot tub and saunas. In fact, the sauna is closed daily for an hour for deep cleaning. The Fitness Centre includes stationary bikes, treadmills, stair climber, elliptical trainer, and free weights.

And no wellness experience is complete without a visit to the spa. The Willow Stream Spa is one of the top luxury spas in North America and there’s one at the Fairmont Empress. Of course, you don’t have to be a guest at the Empress to experience one of their signature treatments (there’s a separate street entrance), but if you’re already there, it’s a perfect way to relax. Check out their monthly promotions as it’s a great way to try out their services if you’ve never been before.

For those who want to sightsee, the Fairmont Empress offers guests BMW bikes to use during the duration of their stay to explore Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Aside from walking, there really is no other better way to meander the paths along the harbour and downtown corridor.

After a weekend of bliss, great cocktails and food, Keith and I felt recharged and ready to take on more of what life throws at us. Our experience at the Fairmont Empress was everything we hoped it would be and more. It really is such a beautiful property, I truly hope that you get an opportunity to stay there and take in that Fairmont magic that’s captured both our hearts for the past decade.

For a visual tour of my experience at the Fairmont Empress, check out my video below! And if you like it, I would love a thumbs up and feel free to subscribe to my YouTube Channel!

Disclosure: Keith and I were invited by the Fairmont Empress Hotel as part of a press trip experience. Accommodations, dining and transportation to/from Vancouver to Victoria were provided. That said, the above represents my honest and complete review of the experience.